The Caring Vet

I have an almost 10 year old Belgian Malinois who seems to be very sore after playing in the snow yesterday. Is there anything I can give for pain?

Pain Drugs for Dogs: Be an Informed Pet Owner
A decade ago, few drugs were available to treat pets in pain at home. Pups were spayed or neutered at the animal hospital, stitched up, and sent home without pain medication. And dogs with painful arthritis limped along without drugs that were safe and effective for long-term use.

Today, a new generation of nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) is bringing relief to millions of dogs with joint problems or with pain after surgery.

“NSAIDs are extremely effective for controlling pain and inflammation in dogs,” says Stephen F. Sundlof, D.V.M., Ph.D., director of the Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM). “These are very valuable drugs that help many pets live to a ripe old age.”

But like any drugs, NSAIDs carry a risk of side effects, or adverse reactions. Most adverse reactions are mild, but some may be serious, especially if the drugs are not used according to labeled directions. Some reactions result in permanent damage or even death.

“It’s important for pet owners to be aware of the risks and benefits of all drugs, including NSAIDs, so that they can make informed decisions about their pets’ health care,” says Sundlof. “Owners who give their dog NSAIDs need to know the side effects to watch for that indicate their pet needs medical attention.”

The most common side effects from NSAIDs include vomiting, loss of appetite, depression, lethargy, and diarrhea. Serious side effects include gastrointestinal bleeding, ulcers, perforations, kidney damage, and liver problems.

“The side effects of NSAIDs are very well known and very well documented,” says Michele Sharkey, D.V.M., in the CVM’s Office of New Animal Drug Evaluation. But this information is not always getting to the pet owner, she says. “If the pet owner can recognize a possible reaction, stop the medication, and get veterinary help, it could mean the difference between a good outcome and a disaster.”

Safety and Effectiveness

The CVM, which regulates drugs for use in animals, has approved some NSAIDs for use in dogs with pain from degenerative joint disease (osteoarthritis) or with pain after surgery. These include Etogesic (etodolac), Rimadyl (carprofen), Metacam (meloxicam), Zubrin (tepoxalin), Deramaxx (deracoxib), Previcox (firocoxib), and Novox (generic carprofen).

NSAIDs help to control signs of arthritis, including inflammation, swelling, stiffness, and joint pain. Inflammation–the body’s response to irritation or injury–is characterized by redness, warmth, swelling, and pain. NSAIDs work by blocking the production of prostaglandins, the body chemicals that cause inflammation.

The FDA considers approved NSAIDs to be safe and effective when used according to the label and when dog owners are informed about common NSAID adverse reactions.

And veterinarians are becoming increasingly aware of the advantages of recognizing and controlling pain, says Charles Lemme, D.V.M., a member of the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), Clinical Practitioners Advisory Committee. “We recognize that pets are healing better and faster with pain control.”

Lemme says that the emphasis on pain management may be partly because of the availability of the newer NSAIDs. “The NSAIDs we have available now are a lot safer than what we’ve had before and we’re seeing far fewer side effects than before.”

Before the newer generation of NSAIDs came along, “people were using NSAIDs such as aspirin in an attempt to mitigate arthritic pain,” says Michael Andrews, D.V.M., president of the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA). “We saw the consequence of their use,” adds Andrews, who recalls seeing a client who gave her dog aspirin for six weeks, two times a day. “The dog had a bleeding nose that wouldn’t stop.”

“NSAIDs are used in many, many dogs and the frequency of problems is quite low,” says Andrews. “The duration of use makes a difference in safety. If used for a day or two, the risks often are much lower than when used over long periods of time for a chronic arthritic condition.”

Drugs used to control pain should be given only when necessary, and in the smallest dose that is effective, says Sharkey. “Arthritis waxes and wanes. Some animals get worse in cold weather. If the dog seems to improve to the point of not needing the drug, the owner should discuss continued use of the NSAID with a veterinarian.”

An owner should never give an NSAID to a pet, or increase the dose or frequency of a drug, without the veterinarian’s instructions, adds Sharkey. “Just like different people respond differently to a drug, the way each dog responds to an NSAID varies.” Because of this individual response, no one NSAID is considered more effective than another, and because every NSAID can cause adverse reactions, none is considered safer than others.

If a pet is prescribed an NSAID, the CVM recommends that pet owners take the following steps to make sure they are fully informed about the drug and can make the best decision for their pet’s health.

Ask Questions and Tell All

Ask your veterinarian about the benefits, risks, and side effects of any medication, including NSAIDs. “An informed dog owner is the best defense against serious side effects from NSAIDs,” says Sharkey. “Owners should not hesitate to ask questions and inquire about possible side effects or signs to watch for when treating a dog.”

Tell your veterinarian your pet’s symptoms and current medications, including prescriptions, over-the-counter drugs, vitamins, herbal supplements, and flea control products. Giving NSAIDS and other medications together could harm your pet. Aspirin, for instance, may be in a supplement you’re giving to your pet, says Sharkey, and should not be used in conjunction with an NSAID.

Ask for the Client Information Sheet

Pet owners should receive a “Client Information Sheet” with every NSAID prescription. Client Information Sheets, also called “Information for Dog Owner Sheets,” are user-friendly summaries that explain the results to expect from using the drug, what to discuss with your veterinarian before giving the drug, possible side effects to look for, and other important information. The FDA has helped the pharmaceutical companies who make NSAIDs for dogs develop these sheets for the owners, and the companies provide them with each NSAID they ship.

Ask your veterinarian for the sheet if you do not receive one, and read the information carefully before giving the medication to your dog. If your veterinarian can’t provide the Client Information Sheet, you can get one by printing it from the CVM’s Web site or by calling the toll-free number of the drug company.

Bernadette Dunham, D.V.M., Ph.D., deputy director in the CVM’s Office of New Animal Drug Evaluation, explains why some veterinarians may be unable to locate the Client Information Sheet. “They often have the role of veterinarian and the role of pharmacist,” she says. Veterinary hospitals get shipments of drugs from the pharmaceutical companies or distributors. Then they may repackage the drug in their hospitals’ bottles, often in smaller quantities for distributing to clients. In the repackaging process, the Client Information Sheet, which is often printed on the package insert for the veterinarian, may be tossed out inadvertently.

The FDA, the veterinary community, and the pharmaceutical companies are working together to ensure that NSAIDs are used safely and responsibly and that owners are given the Client Information Sheets.

“The pharmaceutical companies are trying to come up with creative ideas to make it easier for busy veterinarians,” says Dunham. Many companies are making the Client Information Sheet a tear-off sheet that can be easily separated from the drug labeling.

Some companies also are packaging drugs in smaller quantities with the Client Information Sheet sealed inside the package. Therefore, the veterinarian can just attach the hospital label and dosing instructions on the drug container without repackaging the drug and inadvertently discarding the sheet.

Through published journal articles, electronic newsletters, and information posted on their Web sites, both the AVMA and the AAHA are reinforcing the importance of client communication regarding NSAIDs, including handing out the Client Information Sheets, to their veterinary members.

Get the Recommended Tests

NSAIDs approved for use in dogs contain the following information on their labels:

All dogs should undergo a thorough history and physical examination before initiation of NSAID therapy. Appropriate laboratory tests to establish baseline blood values prior to, and periodically during, the use of any NSAID are strongly recommended.

If the veterinarian recommends a blood test before administering an NSAID to a dog, don’t decline it, advises Sharkey. “There are good reasons for it.” The knowledge gained from these tests could be critical in deciding whether the drug is safe to use in a dog.

Testing is particularly important with long-term NSAID use, such as to treat arthritic pain, says Andrews. “It makes sense to do some preliminary screening blood work and periodic tests to identify any problems and monitor how well the pet is tolerating the drug over time.”

Work With Your Veterinarian to Find the Best NSAID
Many NSAID choices are available, and selecting the best NSAID for a particular pet is important, says Sharkey. “Sometimes, the process of finding the best one can mean changing the prescription.”

Lynne Heslip of Howell, Mich., tried several NSAIDs on her 4-year-old Irish wolfhound, O.B., who had painful hip dysplasia. “The first NSAID did not work well,” she says. “Pain relief seemed to be minimal, and she had vomiting and wasn’t interested in eating.” Heslip watched her normally outgoing dog seclude herself behind the kitchen table. “She was severely depressed. She didn’t want to interact with other animals or with people.”

Working with her veterinarian, Heslip stopped the NSAID, waited five days for the drug to clear out of the dog’s system, and tried another NSAID. “Within one week, I noticed a drastic change for the better,” says Heslip. “She was much more animated and happier.” O.B. was on NSAIDs for about three years until her death. Heslip reports that her current 6-year-old Irish wolfhound, Isabella, is on the same NSAID, with very good results.

Bad Reaction? Stop Medication and Call a Veterinarian

If you suspect an adverse reaction to an NSAID, stop administering the drug and contact a veterinarian immediately. Some reactions are mild and go away after stopping the drug.

When giving a pet an NSAID, watch for these side effects, which are listed on the Client Information Sheet and on the drug label:

Decrease or increase in appetite
Vomiting
Change in bowel movements (such as diarrhea or black, tarry, or bloody stools)
Change in behavior (such as decreased or increased activity level, seizure, aggression, or lack of coordination)
Yellowing of gums, skin, or whites of the eyes (jaundice)
Change in drinking habits (frequency or amount consumed)
Change in urination habits (frequency, color, or smell)
Change in skin (redness, scabs, or scratching).
These side effects are the most common. But not all possible side effects are included on the Client Information Sheet or on the drug label. Always contact your veterinarian if you have questions about your dog’s medication.

What starts out as a minor problem can rapidly progress to an emergency. An owner should be encouraged to call his or her veterinarian with any concerns about the NSAID the dog is receiving. You may even call the drug manufacturer’s toll-free number that appears on each Client Information Sheet. When problems are experienced with a product, the manufacturer may have specific recommendations for your veterinarian regarding tests and treatments.

Cindi Brinkley of Danville, Ill., rushed her dog to the veterinarian at the first sign of a bad reaction. Maude, a cocker spaniel-collie mix, injured herself when she was 11 months old while playing with a littermate in the house. “She slipped on the basement floor coming out of a turn, and both back legs splayed out,” says Brinkley.

Maude was diagnosed with a deformed hip joint and scheduled for corrective surgery. In the meantime, the veterinarian prescribed an NSAID for pain control. “I was not told a thing about the drug other than how to give it to her,” says Brinkley.

Maude had been on the drug for a month when Brinkley came home from work one day to find the dog bleeding from her rectum. “It was very, very frightening,” she says. “The whole back of my dog was bright red–I thought she was bleeding to death.” After treatment in the veterinary hospital and discontinuation of the drug, Maude recovered from the incident. Now more than 7 years old, “she has some vomiting and loose stools every so often,” says Brinkley, who suspects the digestive problems may be a lasting effect of the drug.

Report Bad Reactions

If you or your veterinarian suspects that an adverse reaction is related to the use of an NSAID or any drug, it should be reported to the pharmaceutical company. Usually, the veterinarian reports it, but if the veterinarian doesn’t, the owner should. The company, by law, has to report all adverse reactions to the FDA, which looks for signals of increased frequency and severity of adverse reactions. The FDA works with the pharmaceutical firms to address these events and improve the ability of the product to be more safely used.

If unable to report problems directly to the pharmaceutical company, veterinarians and owners are encouraged to report veterinary Adverse Drug Experiences (ADEs) and suspected product failures to the government agency that regulates the product. Adverse experiences with NSAIDs should be reported to the FDA’s CVM.

Medicate Under Veterinary Supervision

The FDA has approved some nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) for use in dogs. In the United States, there are no oral NSAIDs approved for use in cats. Veterinarians can, however, legally prescribe human drugs to animals unless it presents a risk to the public health. This type of use is known as extralabel, or off-label, for uses not listed on the label. Extralabel use can also mean prescribing a drug to a different species, for a different condition, or in a different dosage than that for which the drug was approved. For example, a veterinarian may prescribe a lower dose of an NSAID drug approved for dogs to a cat with an inflamed joint.

But pet owners should not give their own drugs to pets or otherwise medicate their animals without veterinary supervision, says Michele Sharkey, D.V.M., in the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine.

Different species metabolize drugs differently, she says. “You take aspirin or Tylenol on any given day for a headache and not think twice about it, but dogs are more sensitive to aspirin than humans, and one Tylenol can kill a cat. Pet owners should always work with their veterinarians to make medication decisions.”

My son’s 9 year old pitbull, who I have had custody of since he joined the Army in 2002, has been diagnosed with a ligament tear in his left rear leg. He originally presented with walking on his toes or limping with 3 legs. This had been going on for about 3 weeks but with his symptoms getting worse. He has been on anti-inflammatories for almost 3 weeks. Although I see some improvement in putting weight on this leg, I also see more “wobbling” of that leg as he walks. He also is still walking on the toes. He right front leg seems to almost bow out to help him stand. I am unsure of how the symtoms of a tear vs. a rupture present. He is an active dog and we try to keep him “quiet” and reduced his access to the yard by sectioning off an area. I was given your website from a friend who uses your services. You seem to have quite a few different treatment options. Can you tell me what would be involved in the diagnosing and different treatment options available. I know he is uncomfortable. The vet that he goes to will only do surgery if his symtoms hadn’t improved with rest and anti-inflammatories. Cost is also a concern, yet I want the best for my son’s dog.

Thanks in advance.

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7417 advancedcareforpets.com

CRUCIATE LIGAMENT RUPTURE

What and where are the cruciate ligaments?
There are two bands of fibrous tissue called the cruciate ligaments in each knee joint. They join the femur and tibia (the bones above and below the knee joint) together so that the knee works as a hinged joint.

They are called cruciate ligaments because they “cross over” inside the knee joint. One ligament connects from inside to outside the knee joint and the other outside to inside, crossing each other in the middle.

Humans have the same anatomical structure of the knee. Cruciate ligament rupture is a common knee injury of athletes. The term anterior cruciate is used to describe the identical anatomical structure in humans.

How does a cranial cruciate injury occur?
The knee joint is a hinged joint and only moves in one plane, backwards and forwards. Traumatic cruciate damage is caused by a twisting injury to the knee joint. This is most often seen in dogs and athletes when running and suddenly changing direction so that the majority of the weight is taken on this single joint. This injury usually affects the anterior or cranial (front) ligament. The joint is then unstable and causes extreme pain, often resulting in lameness.
The injury also occurs commonly in obese dogs, just by stumbling over a pebble while walking.
A more chronic form of cruciate damage can occur due to weakening of the ligaments as a result of disease. The ligament may become stretched or partially torn and lameness may be only slight and intermittent. With continued use of the joint, the condition gradually gets worse until rupture occurs.

How is it diagnosed?
With traumatic cruciate rupture, the usual history is that the dog was running and suddenly stopped or cried out and was then unable to bear weight on the affected leg.
· Many pets will “toe touch” and place only a small amount of weight on the injured leg.
· During the examination, the veterinarian will try to demonstrate a particular movement, called a drawer sign. This indicates laxity in the knee joint. Many dogs will require mild sedation before this test can be performed. Other diagnostic tests such as radiographs (x-rays) may also be necessary.
· Tests such as arthroscopy may be needed to rule out other damage to the joint.

Is other joint damage common?
Inside the knee joint are pieces of cartilage called menisci. The menisci act as shock absorbers between the femur and tibia. Many times these cartilages are also damaged when the cruciate ligaments rupture. They are usually repaired at the same time as the ligament surgery.

Is an operation always necessary?
Dogs under 10 kgs (22 lbs.) may heal without surgery. These patients are often restricted to cage rest for two to six weeks. Dogs over 10 kgs (22 lbs.) usually require surgery to heal. Unfortunately, most dogs will eventually require surgery to correct this painful injury. Other treatment options include stabilization with a knee brace and stem cell therapy.

What does surgery involve?
There are various techniques available to replace the action of the cruciate ligaments. These surgeries most often involve the placement of artificial ligaments along the outside of the knee joint. There is a newer surgical technique available called tibial plateau leveling osteotomy (TPLO) that is especially beneficial for larger, more athletic dogs. Your veterinarian will discuss with you the best treatment option for your pet.

Is post-operative care difficult?
It is important that your dog have limited activity for six to eight weeks after surgery. Provided you are able to carry out your veterinarian’s instructions, good function should return to the limb within three months. Unfortunately, regardless of the technique used to stabilize the joint, arthritis is likely to develop in the joint as your dog ages. Weight control and nutritional supplements such as glucosamine / chondroitin may help delay the onset of arthritis in your pet. Many dogs will receive physical therapy after the surgery to speed recovery and reduce complications. Your veterinarian will discuss your pet’s recommended post-operative care with you prior to surgery.

Is obesity such a problem?
Obesity can result in cruciate ligament rupture. If your dog is overweight, the recovery time will be much longer. Obesity also increases the risk of injury to the other knee. Weight loss is as important as surgery in ensuring rapid return to normal function.

I recently rescued a 2 year old Brittany. She has been with us for about 4 months and has since developed Coprophagia. We have tried various remedies including pumpkin in her food and pet store powder remedies. None of these have worked so far. We are still in a training phase with her. She still only listens when it is convenient for her. I am taking steps to try and train her to a strong “No” or “Leave it”, but we’re still struggling. Someone has sent me a link for CoproBan. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Thank you so much.

First, many dogs that exhibit coprophagia may have an underlying digestive disorder, so please have your dog screened. Next, make sure that this dog has plenty of daily exercise and enrichment. I would consider feeding this dog all her meals out of a food dispensing toy so that she works harder to get her food. Another option is to toss her food out into the yard or the deck and make her forage for it.

Of course, cleaning up after the dogs when they defecate is important as well. Leash walking makes that easier and then there are fewer stools in the yard for the dog to eat.

Some dogs can be trained with a clicker to “turn away” when they defecate for a food reward and gradually trained to return to the house for a food reward after defecation.

Some dogs will respond to a remotely activated citronella collar, when the dog tries to eat the stool, the owner activates the collar. Then hopefully there is an association with something aversive with picking up stool. This will not work if the dog has the opportunity to be outside unsupervised and eat feces.

Good luck and keep us posted.

I have a 2 year old lab/rottie mixed and at night he barks like crazy ! He’s not in a kennel at night because he burst through them and during the day hes outside (wish he’d say out at night) But anyways HOW CAN WE HUSH HIM AT NIGHT ? the barking is ridiculous. Its so bad that my son has to sleep in the same room as him and not in his own room. I’ve been told to muzzel him at night but I just dont find that reasonable.. Please any suggestions ??

BARKING

Why do dogs bark?
Barking is one of the most common complaints of dog owners and their neighbors! But barking is natural. It can serve as a territorial warning signal to other dogs and pack members. Dogs may vocalize when separated from their pack or family members. Barking also occurs during times of indecision, anxiety, or frustration. Medical problems can also contribute to vocalization, especially in the older dog.

How can barking problems be prevented?
Socialization and habituation — get puppies used to as many new people, animals, situations and noises as possible. This will minimize the amount or intensity of alarm barking. Barking should only be allowed to alert owners and then be controlled and stopped before the dog becomes agitated and out of control. Owner control, training and leadership are essential (see our handout on ‘Puppy training – taking charge’).

How can I stop my dog barking when I leave?
Effective crate training techniques when your dog is first obtained should decrease the dog’s anxiety when it is left alone in its crate (see our handout on ‘House safety and crate training’). Your dog should gradually be taught to spend longer periods of time away from you. Obtaining two dogs may provide company for each other and may reduce distress vocalization and departure anxiety. If your dog has been barking when you leave for some time, he may be suffering from separation anxiety and you should consult your veterinarian for treatment options.

My dog constantly barks. What does she want?
Attention getting barking can be problematic and is often reinforced by owners giving in to their dog’s demands. Allowing a barking dog indoors, or feeding, patting, praising, playing with, giving a toy, or even just going to a barking dog to try and quiet it down, are just a few examples of how an owner may unknowingly reinforce barking. Never reward barking with any type of attention, even occasionally since it usually will make barking more likely to continue.

How can I train my dog to ‘quiet down’ on command?
Training the dog to a “quiet” command is an invaluable aid for controlling undesirable barking. In fact, most owners accept their dog’s barking as normal and even acceptable. However, the barking becomes problematic when it gets too loud, too frequent, or will not stop on command. Therefore, to train the dog to quiet down on cue, you must find an effective means of quieting the dog, which should be preceded with the command. Just loudly telling your pet to ‘be quiet’, will probably not be understood, especially if silence does not follow the verbal command. In fact, yelling may just add to the noise and anxiety, thereby encouraging your dog to bark more. Therefore you must be able to associate silence with whatever command you are using. (Yellow denotes new wording)

Another method to teach a “quiet” command is to wait until your dog is barking, say to a doorbell and while he is barking place a very tasty food treat by his nose. Most dogs will stop barking to sniff the treat. At the same time you must say the word you will use for quiet, such as ‘silent’, ‘hush’ etc. When the dog is quiet (as they will be because dogs cannot sniff and bark at the same time) you can praise him, say ‘good, quiet’ and give the treat. Again, as with all new tasks, numerous repetitions are necessary for lasting learning.

Alternately, distraction or remote punishment devices (see below) can be used to disrupt the barking. One of the most effective means of interrupting barking and ensuring quiet is a remote leash and head halter. A pull on the leash disrupts the dog and closes the mouth, which should also coincide with a verbal command such as ‘quiet’ or ‘hush’. Quiet behavior can then be reinforced first by releasing and then giving a reinforcer such as praise or food if the dog remains quiet. Soon the dog should associate the closed mouth and the word prompt with the absence of noise and begin to stop barking when given the verbal prompt alone.

Another practical technique for teaching a dog to cease barking on command is to first teach it to begin barking on cue. Use a stimulus that will cause the dog to bark and pair it with a ‘bark’ command. Numerous repetitions allow the dog to associate the word ‘bark’ or ‘speak’ with the action. Dogs that bark on command can then be taught to turn off the barking by removing the cue or stimulus, and giving a ‘hush’ or ‘quiet’ command just before the barking subsides. As soon as your dog is quiet, give a favored treat or reward.

It can be difficult or impractical to teach a dog to be ‘quiet’ on command if the barking cannot be predicted or ‘turned on’ or if it is too intense.

How can I train my dog to be quiet without having to constantly tell him or her to quiet down?
The key is to reward the behavior that we want (i.e. quiet and settled) rather than to constantly pay attention to the behavior we don’t want (barking). Each time you attend to the barking dog, you may be able to quiet it down (as discussed above). However, when you are unsuccessful you may actually be inadvertently rewarding the barking (by giving the dog attention or treats to quiet it down) or may be aggravating the problem with yelling and punishment (which can make the dog more anxious and more likely to bark). The goal of training should be to teach the dog what you want it to do (for rewards) rather than to try and teach it what NOT to do. By providing a daily routine that provides sufficient play, exercise and training, followed by set times where the dog is taught to settle and nap or play with its toys in a bedding area, your dog can be reinforced for quiet times, rather than for play soliciting, attention getting and barking behaviors.

What are my chances of correcting my dog’s barking problem?
Chances are good for most barking problems. But the household situation in which the dog resides may make it extremely difficult to correct completely. Even a small amount of barking could disturb a sleeping baby, or upset neighbors, (particularly in apartments or townhouses). When trying to resolve barking problems, the motivation for the barking behavior is an important component. Some stimuli are so strong that it will be difficult to stop the barking behavior. You need sufficient time to implement the correction training.

What can I do to correct my dog’s barking problem?
The treatment program must be based on the type of problem, your household, the immediacy of the situation, and the type and level of control that you require. A good behavioral history is important to determine cause, motivation and potential reinforcing stimuli for the barking behavior. Treatment plans need to consider the following:

Ensure that your dog is not being rewarded inadvertently. Some owners in an attempt to calm their dog down will actually encourage the barking by giving attention, play, food or affection.

Insure that your response is not aggravating the problem. For example yelling at a dog that is barking due to anxiety or as a territorial response is only likely to increase the dog’s barking and anxiety.

Sometimes the home environment can be modified so that the dog is kept away from the stimuli (sounds and sights) that cause barking. Exposure might be minimized by confining the dog to a crate (if the dog is used to a crate) or in a room away from doors and windows, or by covering windows so that the dog cannot look outside. Additionally, privacy fencing may be helpful for dogs when they are outdoors. Dogs that bark when left alone outdoors may have to be kept indoors except when the owner is available to supervise. Trigger sounds such as doorbells or telephones that might have become conditioned stimuli for barking should be altered to change their sound.

Until effective control using a reward based training program, it is unlikely that the dog will quiet down on cue. Increasing interactive play periods and exercise, crate and confinement training, halter training and obedience classes may need to be implemented before bark control training can begin.

Once you have sufficient control and the dog responds to obedience commands and handling, it should be possible to train your dog to cease barking on command. Training the dog to cease barking on command can be accomplished with lure reward techniques, distraction techniques, or halter and leash training as described above. Regardless of the technique, rewards should be given as soon as the barking stops, so that the dog learns that quiet behavior earns rewards. It is most important to associate SILENCE with the command used. Over time the behavior should be shaped so that the dog is required to stay quiet for progressively longer times, before a reward is given.

Once the owner has sufficient control with training and the quiet command, it may then be possible to begin a retraining program in the presence of the stimuli (people, other dogs) that lead to barking. Training with a head halter and leash often provides a tool for implementing the techniques safely and effectively especially indoors or when the owner is nearby. The stimulus should first be presented to the dog from a distance (e.g. children riding bicycles on the street while the dog stands on its porch), and the dog given a quiet or sit-stay command. Although the halter and leash is generally all that is required to control the dog and achieve the appropriate response, the dog could also be disrupted using a device such as an ultrasonic trainer or shake can. Training sessions are then repeated with progressively more intense stimuli. This type of training can be effective, but progress can be slow and time consuming.

Pets that are barking for other reasons (fear, separation anxiety, or compulsive disorders) will require treatment for the underlying problem.

Should I punish my dog when she keeps barking?
Punishment is seldom effective in the control and correction of barking problems. Excessive levels of punishment can increase anxiety and further aggravate many forms of barking, while mild punishment merely rewards the behavior by providing attention.

What anti-barking devices are there and are they effective?
For product list and manufacturers see our product handout.

Owner-Activated Products: These products are most useful for getting the pet’s attention (disruption) during quiet command training. Ultrasonic devices, audible devices, water sprayers, a shake can (an empty soda can with a few coins sealed inside) or even a favored squeaky toy might be used to get the dog’s attention and temporarily stop the barking. However, without concurrent retraining techniques and an owner with good control, many dogs will soon begin to ignore the devices. However, if the device is used to interrupt the barking and the quiet behavior is then reinforced, the pet may become less anxious and less likely to bark in the presence of the stimulus, or at the very least will quiet much faster on command.

Bark-Activated Products: When barking occurs in the owner’s absence, bark activated products (in conjunction with environmental modification and retraining) are often the most practical means of deterring inappropriate barking. Bark-activated products may also be a better choice than owner-activated devices, since they ensure immediate and accurate timing. Off-collar devices are useful for training the dog to cease barking in selected areas, such as near doorways or windows, (or for dogs that bark in their crate or pen). The Super Barker Breaker emits an audible alarm.

Bark-activated collars are useful when barking does not occur in a predictable location. Audible and ultrasonic training collars are occasionally effective but they are neither sufficiently unpleasant nor consistent enough to be a reliable deterrent. There are also collars that emit either a citronella or unscented spray each time the dog barks and is sufficiently unpleasant to deter most dogs. Although these may be effective in the owner’s absence, they may soon become ineffective without concurrent training. One problem is that barking that is highly motivated may be too intense to be deterred for any length of time by the citronella spray. In addition, if the reservoir empties out or the battery “runs out” then the dog may learn to bark while wearing the collar and even when refilled the collar may no longer be effective. Therefore, when using a citronella spray collar it is advisable that the owner be present so that as soon as the dog stops barking, the owner can direct the dog into an enjoyable pastime (e.g. play, tummy rub, favorite treat) as long as the dog remains quiet. In this way, the quiet behavior is reinforced, and any anxiety about the stimulus (people coming to the door, people coming to the yard, other dogs) can be gradually reduced. In fact, in time some dogs may begin to associate the arrival of new people or other dogs, with something positive (counter-conditioning).

Most importantly, bark collars only work when they are on the dog. Most dogs will learn to distinguish when the collar is on and when it is off. When they are not wearing the collar, most dogs will bark.

Is debarking surgery effective?
Surgical debarking is a drastic and often permanent method of eliminating barking. Varying degrees of vocalization may return as the surgical site heals and scars. However, devocalization does not address the underlying motivation for barking and is unlikely to reduce the intensity or frequency of barking itself. Devocalization is therefore not a consideration except where the owners are confronted with the need to relinquish their pet if vocalization cannot be resolved. In these cases the risks and humane issues will need to be weighed against all other possible options.

my 7 yr old female minpin was in a kennel with other minpins in my barn
when I left for long weekend of three days. They all have had vacines, left plenty of water and food
and bedded them well.

When I returned, her eyes were bulging and swollen and she was blind, almost were popping out of socket, she could not close her eyes at all of course. all minpins get along well with each other. I have raised minpin for 15 years never seen anything like this ever. What could have caused this
to happen so quickly?

The standard rule outs are absecesses, tumours, glaucoma and extraocular muscle myositis. I would recommend that you see your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Hello,

My 14-year old Bichon Frisé has epilepsy and arthritis. 5 days ago (Monday) she had a mini stroke and couldn’t control her bladder for the first time since she was house-trained. She lost control of her hind legs and squirted wee 4 times in one day. She seemed ok-ish afterwards, but yesterday and today she’s been coughing and wheezing so violently. She coughs as if trying to bring a furball out. And it doesn’t stop for several minutes at a time. It’s been happening way too often these last few days. The vet checked her on Monday and said her heart was strong and there were no obvious signs of anything else that could be wrong. What can I do to ease the coughing?
Thanking you in advance!
Simone

What could be causing my pet to cough?
A number of different conditions may cause coughing episodes. Some of these conditions include inflammation and infection (bacterial, fungal, and viral) of the respiratory tract, foreign bodies or tumors within the respiratory tract, allergies, tracheal collapse, parasitic disease (including heartworm infections and lungworm infections), aspiration pneumonia, and underlying heart disease.

How do we determine what the underlying cause of the cough in my pet?
A complete history and physical examination of your pet will provide us with some clues regarding the cause of the cough. The pattern, characteristics, frequency and timing of the coughing episodes are important to note. For example, is the coughing noted only in relation to periods of exercise or is the coughing noted only at night when your pet is lying down?

A physical examination of your pet will include a through assessment of the respiratory tract and heart for evidence of abnormal breath and heart sounds.

A series of screening tests may provide us with some additional clues regarding the cause of the coughing episodes and will provide us with an overall assessment of your pet’s general health. However, these tests are unlikely to provide us with a definitive diagnosis; additional diagnostic tests are almost always needed in order to arrive at a definitive diagnosis for coughing, which will optimize treatment for your pet.

What might these screening tests include?
Depending upon your pet’s history and physical examination findings, these screening tests may include a complete blood count (CBC), a serum biochemistry profile, a urinalysis, a fecal flotation, a fecal Baermann, a heartworm test for microfilaria, and thoracic radiographs and/or ultrasound.

What could these tests indicate?
The CBC includes an evaluation of the red blood cells, the white blood cells, and the platelet components of a blood sample. Changes in the red blood cell components could include anemia associated with a chronic respiratory tract disorder. Alternatively, if the respiratory or cardiac disease is severe or long-standing, we may find evidence of increased numbers of red blood cells. Such increased red blood cell numbers would be the body’s way of trying to deliver oxygen to the tissues despite compromised lung or cardiac function.

The white blood cell numbers may be increased if inflammation or infection is a cause of your pet’s cough. Increases in specific types of white blood cells, for example eosinophils, may point to an underlying allergic or parasitic cause to the cough.

The serum biochemistry profile and urinalysis are not likely to provide us with definitive information regarding the underlying cause of the cough but secondary effects as a result of compromised organ function may be noted. For example, if your pet’s cough is due to underlying heart disease, then other organs will be affected by the compromised blood flow; this organ compromise may be reflected by increases in the kidney or liver related metabolites and enzymes.

A coagulation profile is indicated if bleeding is noted in association with the coughing episodes. A coagulation profile will evaluate the activity of the proteins involved in blood clotting.

A fecal flotation and a fecal Baermann test may be used to evaluate fresh fecal samples for the presence of eggs (using the flotation technique) or larvae (using the Baermann technique) from parasites capable of infesting the respiratory tract. Both tests are suggested if parasitic infection is suspected because some parasites diagnosed from eggs in the feces while others, such as the lungworm, are diagnosed from the presence of larvae in the pet’s feces. .

Heartworm (Dirofilaria immitis) testing may be indicated if your dog has not been receiving a heartworm preventative during the summer mosquito season, or if there has been recent travel to a geographical region that has a high incidence of heartworm disease. Heartworm testing typically involves a serum sample that is evaluated for the presence of a protein (antigen) specific for heartworm. If the results of this initial screening test are equivocal, then other confirmatory tests such as evaluation of a blood sample for heartworm microfilaria (immature heartworm) or chest radiographs, may need to be employed.

Thoracic radiographs, ultrasound and electrocardiograms may be used to evaluate the lungs and heart for evidence of masses, fluid accumulation, cellular infiltrates, or enlargement. Depending upon what changes are noted, further more invasive testing may be undertaken

What additional tests may be required?
Additional more invasive tests may include a transtracheal wash, a brochoalveolar lavage, a fine needle aspirate of accumulated fluids, a fine needle aspiration biopsy of mass lesions, and a bacterial culture of any harvested material

The results of the initial screening tests will determine what additional tests are indicated.

A brief review of the indications for these tests follows.

A transtracheal wash is indicated when the initial screening tests are supportive of upper airway disease. A transtracheal wash involves the infusion of a small quantity of sterile solution into the trachea (windpipe), where it will contact the lining and mix with any secretions and debris. This fluid is then quickly aspirated back into the syringe, with the aim of retrieving samples of airway secretions including cellular material and infectious agents (such as bacteria, fungi, or parasites) that will give us an indication of the cause of your pet’s cough.

The material retrieved in the fluid must be processed rapidly, and evaluated by a veterinary pathologist. Therefore this sample must be sent to a veterinary referral laboratory.

There are two ways of performing a transtracheal wash. The first method involves the passage of a special catheter through the skin and into the trachea prior to infusion of the sterile fluid. No anesthesia, other than a local block, is required with this method. The second method involves use of a general anesthetic and the placement of an endotracheal tube (a tube that we normally insert into the trachea during general anesthesia). A second catheter is then threaded down the endotracheal tube so that the sterile fluid can be infused and re-aspirated.

Depending upon the elements present in the collected airway secretions, we may be able to determine what the cause of your pet’s cough is. For example, the retrieval of large numbers of special white blood cells called lymphocytes is supportive of a viral infection, while large numbers of eosinophils is supportive of allergic airway disease or parasitic infections.

Bronchoscopy allows the evaluation of the major airways by use of a small diameter, flexible, fiberoptic endoscope. Bronchoscopy allows us to visually assess the airways for inflammation, hemorrhage, and some parasites, and will be indicated if the pet may have a structural abnormality of the airways such as a collapsing trachea.

Additionally, bronchoscopy is a way of collecting samples from the lower airways using the bronchoalveolar lavage technique. A general anesthetic is required for bronchoscopy.

Bronchoalveolar lavage is similar to a transtracheal aspirate in that a small volume of sterile fluid is instilled into the airways and then re-aspirated in hopes of retrieving material from airway secretions and lesions. The difference is that with bronchoalveolar lavage, the lower parts of the airways are sampled. Therefore this method is more suited for diseases located deeper within the lung tissue. The disadvantage is that a general anesthetic is required for this procedure. As with a transtracheal wash, the material we obtain from the bronchoalveolar lavage will be sent to a veterinary pathologist for assessment.

Depending upon the nature of the material obtained by either transtracheal aspiration or bronchoalveolar lavage, we may need to culture some of the material in order to definitively determine whether or not there are bacteria or fungi present.

Masses and fluids in the chest may be sampled by use of a fine needle aspiration technique. This technique may not require anesthesia, and may or may not require ultrasonic guidance, depending upon the type of lesion we are sampling. A small gauge needle is attached to a syringe, and either cells from a mass or free fluid from within the chest cavity are aspirated or withdrawn. This material is then sent to a veterinary pathologist for assessment. This technique may yield cellular material that is useful in providing a diagnosis for the cause of your pet’s cough. A mass may, for example, be composed of abnormal cells that are suggestive of cancer, or a fluid may contain evidence of inflammatory cells that are supportive of an underlying bacterial infection.

I have a 14 year old chow/shephard… Taking several medications, Thyroxine for thyroid problems, procrit, tramadol, proin, ciprofloxacin. Would any of these affect Advantix flea meds, so that it would not be functional ? The flea med ? I put some on her two weeks ago, I noticed yesterday, major flea infestation and eggs on her body.
Thanks, Glenda

I am not aware of any potential interactions with Advantix and the medications your dog is on. You may want to try a different brand of flea prevention, such as Vectra 3D or Frontline. You also may want to address the potential of your home being infested. Below is some more information that may be useful.

FLEA CONTROL

My dog always seems to have fleas. What can I do?
Successful flea control involves:

1. Eliminating fleas from your dog
2. Controlling fleas in the environment

Dogs and cats share the same fleas. It is important that all pets in your home are on a flea preventive. Treating your pet for fleas has never been easier. With the many choices we have today, we can provide you with the safest and most effective flea preventive for your pet’s needs.

When it comes to environmental control, we must first understand the flea life cycle.

There are four stages in the life cycle of the flea:

Flea eggs are whitish and about 0.5 millimeter (mm) (1/32”) in length. They are unlikely to be seen without a magnifying glass. Eggs are laid by the adult flea after taking a blood meal. The eggs are initially laid on the dog’s skin but fall off into the environment to continue their life cycle. Flea eggs constitute approximately 50% of the total flea population. Eggs may hatch in as little as 14 to 28 days, depending on environmental conditions. High humidity and temperature favor rapid hatching

Flea larvae are about 2-5 mm (1/8” to 1/4”) in length. They feed on organic debris found in their environment and on adult flea feces. They dislike bright light and move deep into carpet fibers or under furniture, organic debris, grass, branches, leaves and soil. Flea larvae prefer warm, dark and moist areas. Outdoor larval development occurs only in shaded, moist areas where flea infested pets spend a significant amount of time. Our climate-controlled homes offer an ideal environment for the flea larvae to thrive.

The flea pupae produce a protective silk-like cocoon which is sticky. It quickly becomes coated with grime and debris, which acts as a useful camouflage. With warmth and humidity, pupae become adult fleas in 5-10 days. The adults do not emerge from the cocoon unless stimulated by physical pressure, carbon dioxide or heat. This is important since once fleas emerge from the cocoon they can only exist for a few days unless they are able to feed. Pre-emergent adult fleas can survive within the cocoon for up to 9 months. During this time they are resistant to insecticides applied to the environment. This is important to remember because adult fleas may emerge into the environment a considerable time after you apply insecticides in your home.

Once it emerges, the flea adult, unlike the larvae, is attracted to light and heads to the surface in order to encounter a passing host to feed upon. Two days after the first blood meal, female fleas begin egg production. In normal circumstances the adult female will live up to three weeks, laying approximately 40 eggs per day. The entire life cycle, from egg to adult flea can be completed in 14-28 days depending on environmental conditions.

Apart from irritation, are fleas particularly harmful?
Fleas can cause anemia in heavy infestations, especially in young or debilitated dogs. A single female flea can take up to 15 times her body weight in blood over the several weeks of her adult life. In addition, fleas can carry several diseases, including plague, and also act as vectors to spread one of the most common tapeworms of the dog and cat, Diplylidium caninum.

How do I prevent fleas on my dog?
Successful flea control includes treating both the environment as well as your pet.

What shall I put on my dog?
Shampoos, sprays, powders and topical preparations are all available. Be sure to consult your veterinarian to choose the most effective and safe flea products for your home and pet.

What about the environment?
Environmental preparations are becoming increasingly sophisticated. Remember that most products are only effective against the adult flea. Your veterinarian can provide you with flea products that contain Insect Growth Regulators (IGR) that will help destroy the flea eggs and larvae. Before applying any environmental product, we recommend vacuuming your carpet to stimulate the pre-adult fleas to emerge from their protective cocoons. Be sure to discard the vacuum cleaner bag after its use.

My dog lives most of his life outside. What should I do?
Concentrate on dark, shaded areas. Spray a product containing an IGR and repeat every 14-21 days for three to five applications.

The newer topical and oral flea preventives will greatly assist you in solving your flea problem. With persistence and patience, you and your pet will be flea-free in no time!